Apparel_Fashion

Court uniform2

The full Court Uniform is made with gold braid. It consists of a black button-down high-collar jacket with leafy golden embroidery on the chest, cuffs and long tails; white breeches, or black trousers with golden piping at each side; and a cocked hat with white ostrich plumes.

The uniform was worn by British diplomats as well as Governors and other colonial officials within the British Empire when stationed in temperate climates. A simplified white uniform was worn in tropical postings. By the early 20th century, it was required wear on ceremonial occasions for Governors-General, Lieutenant Governors, Ambassadors, and even Prime Ministers of Commonwealth Realm countries.

By the end of the 20th century the use of this uniform had greatly diminished. Within the British Diplomatic Service only Ambassadors retained a simplified version for wear on such occasions as the presentation of credentials and then only when accredited to certain countries. Until about 1965 Foreign Office Regulations and Consular Instructions had required even junior foreign service officers to acquire this formal dress following completion of their probation period. Governors of the few remaining colonial territories have recently (c2004) been notified that the expense of providing uniforms will no longer be a recognised charge against the Foreign and Commonwealth Office. Governors-General in Commonwealth countries such as Australia and New Zealand had voluntarily ceased to wear formal uniform from about 1970, after it became general practice to appoint local dignitaries to these positions. It did however reappear when the new Lieutenant Governor of British Columbia wore the full pre-War II gold embroidered tail coat and feathered cocked hat at his Installation Ceremony on 1 October 2007.

Similar uniforms were worn in numerous other (mostly European) nations. Prior to World War II it had been almost universal practice for diplomatic representatives to wear court uniforms on ceremonial occasions, even those representing republics. A notable exception were United States Ambassadors who wore white tie, morning dress or other non-official formal dress according to occasion. Today the uniform, while it still exists in several monarchies, is rarely worn. A few long established foreign services such as those of Spain and the United Kingdom still retain diplomatic uniforms for heads of mission in certain posts. Senior officials of the Russian Foreign Ministry have also retained a diplomatic uniform for wear on certain occasions, though this is basically a dark blue suit with gold collar braiding rather than the pre-revolutionary court dress of tail coat and cocked hat.

In the United Kingdom, court uniform was formerly worn by senior members of the Civil Service (including ambassadors), Privy Counsellors, and Royal Household officials, Governors and Governors-General. It is based on early nineteenth century models; these are described in detail below.

19th century

In 1820, King George IV introduced a court uniform based on the Windsor uniform, modified by the dress of the Marshal of France. It had a dark blue single-breasted tail coat (or "coatee"), lined with black silk, the stand collar and gauntlet cuffs having scarlet velvet facings, gilt buttons, waistcoat, breeches or trousers. Soon only the Royal Household wore scarlet cloth facings, and all others had black velvet collar and cuffs. Later the facings, collar and cuffs became blue velvet.

These civil uniforms came in five classes (later six), in both full dress (for the higher grades only) or levée dress. The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd class Household, as well as the 1st and 2nd class Civil Service, had full dress as well as levée dress, whereas the 4th and 5th class Household and the 3rd, 4th and 5th classes Civil Service had only levée dress for all occasions.

Full dress was worn at courts, evening state parties, drawing rooms, state balls, state concerts, etc.; levée dress was worn at levées, and other ceremonies where full dress was not worn. Neither were worn after retirement without special permission.

The class and category of the dress was indicated by the width of gold oak-leaf embroidery on the coatee: 1st class had 5", 2nd class had 4", 3rd class had 3", 4th class 2", and 5th class 3/8ths" each for full and levée dress gold lace. On both levée and full dress coatees the embroidery had a wavy edging for 1st class, and saw edge for lower classes.

In full dress the coatee's chest, back, tails back and front, collar, cuffs and pocket flaps were all decorated with gold oak-leaf embroidery. Ambassadors were dressed as 1st class, but had, in addition, embroidered sleeves, and back seams. It was fastened by hooks and eyes, with dummy buttons bearing the Royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom (nine buttons up the front, showing between the two embroidered edges two at the waist behind, two at the bottom of back skirts). The coatee had white silk linings, and was worn with white breeches, white gloves, and patent leather court shoes with gilt buckles. The sword had black scabbard, gilt mountings, and sword knot of gold lace strap with bullion tassel; it was worn on a sword belt of white web, with white cloth frog.

In levée dress the coatee had the same embroidery, but only on collar, cuffs, and pocket flaps; the collar of the 1st and 2nd classes had embroidery all around the neck as on full dress, whereas that of 3rd class had front embroidery 4½" long, that of 4th class had front embroidery 3" long, and that of 5th class a saw edge only. The coatee was fastened with practical buttons bearing the Crown onto button-holes. Blue cloth trousers were worn in place of breeches, with a gold oak lace stripe, 2½" wide for 1st and 2nd classes, 2" for 3rd and 4th classes, and 1" for 5th class. White gloves were again worn, while patent leather military boots replaced the buckled shoes, and the sword accessories were similar to that on full dress, but with blue cloth frog.

Both types of dress were worn with black beaver cocked hat, with black silk cockade; for the 1st class it had white ostrich feather border, as well as treble gold bullion loop and tassels. The 2nd class was as above, but with double gold bullion loop and tassels. The 3rd, 4th, 5th class had black ostrich feather border, plaited gold bullion loops, and no tassels.

In addition, a scarlet lined blue cloth cloak, double beasted, black velvet collar and two rows of six buttons each, with a detachable cape, was described in 1898 for outdoor wear, with a soft cloth forage cap (military staff shape), with a blue peak and scarlet welts around the crown and gold braid on top for the Household, and gold braid without scarlet welt in the case of other officials. The cap for consular use had silver instead of gold braid. A greatcoat as an alternative to the cloak, now without cape, was available in 1912.

20th century

A sixth class of civil uniform was introduced after the First World War, that of Privy Counsellors. Thereafter, the embroidery measured 5" for the new class, 4½" for 1st class, and 4" for 2nd class; whereas the 3" lace for 3rd class, 2" for 4th class and 3/8ths" for 5th class were replaced by 1" gold lace. In 1937 Ministers got Privy Council uniform. In 1908, 1912, they were still 1st class uniform. The gold oak lace stripe for Privy Counsellors trousers measured 2½", as did 1st and 2nd classes. The trouser stripes of the 3rd class remained 2", but that of 4th and 5th was now 1¾". From the early twentieth century the Privy Counsellors, 1st and 2nd classes' levée coatee embroidery was extended to include the centre back waist as well as the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps.

For Privy Counsellors, on both levée and full dress coatees the embroidery had a purl edging; the cocked hat was similar to that of the 1st class, but with additional hangers on the gold tassels.

In 1908, white gloves were still mentioned in the regulations, while in 1912 they were not, and the 1937 regulation said that they are not worn.

Edward VII ordered Privy Counsellors to wear civil uniform at Privy Council meetings, but this requirement has lapsed. In lieu of Civil Uniform or Court Dress, alternative dress may be worn by gentlemen (except for Household, Diplomatics and Consular Services) on all occasions when uniform or court dress is prescribed.

Foreign Service variants

The King's or Queen's Foreign Service Messengers were entitled to 5th class court uniform, upgraded to 4th class in 1929. A distinctive greyhound badge is also worn.

Members of the Diplomatic Service also wore court uniforms: Ambassadors's coat is that of 1st class, with additional embroidery on sleeves and seams. High Commissioners for Dominions in London wore 1st class uniform. The High Commissioner for Southern Rhodesia, and Agent-Generals for Australian states wore 2nd class uniform.

Members of the Consular Service wore full dress and levée dress ("half dress" in 1898) uniforms with some modifications. The coatee for both was in blue cloth, with a Prussian collar, single-breasted buttoning with nine frosted gilt buttons of royal arms, two more buttons on back waist, two more on coat tails. Consuls-General and Consuls had embroidered gold and silver lace on collar, cuffs, pocket flaps, and back. Consuls-General had 2½", Consuls 2". Vice-Consuls 1½" on cuffs, and front half of collar only. All wore white breeches and stockings, patent leather court shoes with gilt buckles for full dress, or trousers with silver lace stripes and patent leather military boots for levée dress. Consuls' stripes were 2¼", others' were 1¾". These were worn with black beaver cocked hats, black cockade, silver bullion loops, and gold tassels. For Consuls-General there were treble loops and a border of black ostrich feathers, for Consuls and Vice-Consuls double or single loops respectively, with no feathers. A blue greatcoat or cloak, blue detachable cape was for outdoors use. The sword accessories were the same as for standard court uniform.

Other types of court uniforms

The Court Uniforms vary depending upon the office - all the details being specified in "Dress worn at Court" (1937 edition) - though there have been considerable departures from this, due almost entirely to the exigencies of economy.

The Clerk of the Parliaments wears civil uniform at Court functions.

Clerks from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries wore gowns, bands, and short wigs. Now court dress suit, waistcoat, and trousers. The Clerk of the House wears breeches at the State Opening of Parliament. At court functions clerks wore civil uniform.

Attendants or messengers in the House of Lords since the nineteenth century have worn a black evening dress suit, black waistcoat, and a silver neck badge.

In the House of Commons, the Speaker of the House of Commons wears black silk gown, over a black cloth court suit of legal pattern, white cambric necktie or bands, full-bottomed wig, and three-cornered hat. For mourning he wears a black paramatta gown, white weepers on coat cuffs, broad-hemmed frill and ruffles instead of lace, lawn bands, and black buckles on shoes and knees replacing the bright metal ones.

On state occasions, as when attending on Her Majesty together with the House of Commons, such as for the State Opening of Parliament, or the presentation of an Address, he wears a state robe of black satin damask with gold lace guarding, over a black velvet court suit, lace edged cravat (jabot), lace ruffles or cuffs, full-bottomed wig, beaver three-cornered hat, wig, white gloves.

For courts or drawing rooms in 1898, he wore full dress black court suit, black damask silk state robe trimmed with gold, gilt buckles, lace bands and ruffles, beaver hat, and full-bottomed wig. At levées a black velvet court suit, steel or silver buckles, sword etc was worn.

By 1908, for courts, levées etc he was to wear the "old style" velvet court suit, but not the state robe for courts, as previously, or civil uniform, 1st Class. In 1937, this was changed to Privy Counsellor's Uniform, if entitled. The state robe was confined to occasions when attending upon the Sovereign within the House of Commons.

The Speaker-Elect wears the black legal cloth court dress of a QC with knee breeches and long black stockings instead of trousers, buckled shoes, and a short wig, but no gown.

The Speaker's Secretary wore civil uniform or black cloth court suit of legal pattern, with lace frill and ruffles, steel buckles on breeches and shoes, cocked hat, sword.

The Clerk of the House of Commons, Clerk Assistant, and certain other House officers wore civil uniform.

Serjeants at Arms, their Deputy and Assistants, in the House of Commons wore from the nineteenth century military uniform or a cloth court suit of legal pattern, and sword. These were worn in the House, at courts, levées, and evening state parties. On special occasions the Sejeants wore lace and a collar of SS also, with cloth court dress. Their deputies and assistants wore only the lace. In mourning with the black cloth suit was worn a black sword with black mountings, black knee and shoe buckles, also a broad-hemmed frill and ruffles. With uniform only an arm band was worn.

Doorkeepers and messengers in the House of Commons wear evening dress, black waistcoat, and a silver badge suspended from the neck.

Indian members of the Indian Civil Service were entitled to civil uniform, with a turban or pagre replacing the cocked hat, or the national dress which they were accustomed to wear on ceremonial occasions. They could also wear a blue coat buttoning from the neck to below the waist, worn with white trousers or pyjamas and the native head-dress.

Full dress was worn only at courts and state balls, and on important state occasions at home when ordered. Levée dress was worn at levées, state occasions abroad, naval courts, official visits by and to naval commanders.

With white tropical uniform, sword carried in a white frog so that the hilt projects through a vertical slit on the left side of the coat, which thus conceals the upper part of the scabbard, and should be attached to a white belt worn under the coat. This is only worn on ceremonial occasions.

Indian civil undress uniform (morning) Sword- mameluke pattern, brass scabbard. Sword knot- round gold cord strap with bullion tassel. Sword belt- 1½" wide, lining of red morocco leather, sling Russia leather 1" wide on red morocco leather, the whole covered with a gold oakleaf lace. Also worn with hot weather uniform.

Indian Political Department undress uniform Sword- mameluke pattern, brass scabbard. Sword belt- gold oakleaf lace 1½" wide, with slings 1" wide on white morocco leather. Waistplate- round gilt clasp. Royal Coat of Arms on centre piece, universal ends.

Indian Political Department service dress uniform Sword- regulation cavalry pattern, wooden scabbard, covered with brown leather. Sword belt- brown leather, Sam Browne pattern.

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